Melbourne, Mt Gambia and the fun of kangaroo Island

After the 4 1/2 hour flight from Christchurch you are back in a little car heading for another hotel. Sheri’s out to check us in and I drive around looking for a place to park. The security guard tells me that parking out front would be best because of potential car damage. I park and find Sheri at the bar/front desk checking in. We have stumbled into a common occurrence here in Australia. The small hotels offer slot and off track betting on the first floor and rooms on the 2nd+ floors. While we were still wrapping our heads around that we met up with the security guard again.

During our 15 minute talk he explained that what we are seeing here is only the tip of the iceberg. There are many seniors, and others who go between the 8 gambling halls on this street spending more than they should and subverting the governments efforts to stop them. What government would provide all of these vices just because and then go back and try to legislate morality. Oh yea mine. He said it’s a runaway train here and I recognized the sounds.

We are soon on the highway joining a lot of others on this Australia Day holiday weekend. We come into the great Ocean Road that weaves along the southern coast of Australia. At one point we stop at a general store that supposedly has koala bears in the trees nearby… And they are there! Fun. The soft lime stone has been carved by the ocean into sites called The12 apostles, the London bridge, the arch, the cavern. Each one surrounded by swirling waters and hundreds of adoring fans.

We travel through vast golden brown farm fields with wind vanes and into a forest where wallabies graze and finally pass along fence a with thousands of shoes tied to it. When we finish this leg and shop for supper it’s arrival at 7:30 in Mount Gambier. A sunset of colorful clouds sends us to sleep.

Our host who is also a tour guide has such a nice book on her town that before we leave we drive around to see some of the highlights. The towns reservoir is located at the blue lake which is the inside of the youngest volcano in Australia. Further downtown a sinkhole and cave are filled with gardens. We hadn’t considered any stops in this town so it was a nice bonus.

We have just over five hours of driving to arrive at our ferry to kangaroo Island. Long long stretches of flat farmland and scattered cows go on for miles. When we realize we’re getting low on gas the towns are further apart and we’re told by the man outside an office that there’s no open gas in this town cause of the holiday so we head off 60 km to the next. My gas warning gauge is on and it reads that we have enough gas to go 68 km. Somewhere around the 40 km mark the number disappears from the dashboard. I expect the car to start sputtering. Then 30 k from the town is a surprise gas station and cafe. Our stress and anxiety is replaced by true joy cause we would have needed to walk a long way.

Maybe it’s that stress begets stress so about 15 km from the ferry I reach for my phone and I’m not finding it. We’re driving back to the gas station 10 minutes away. “Yes you left it on the petrol pump” said the cashier as I thanked her. Now rushing more than normal I don’t understand why that big camper won’t let me pass and as I pull into the boat within 10 minutes of departure I think what a day. Things need to get a lot better.

The rolling 45 minute boat trip gives us a chance to settle down and soon we are having a great fried dinner from a recommended seafood restaurant. We arrive at Vivian bay lodge after the staff had gone but we find help from other guests and their tour guide. The best thing she points out is the Koala family in the tree next to our car. We make 4 trips out to see them find a total of 4 scattered about. Before it got too dark I have also startled a nearby kangaroo while biking and watched a couple of wallabies in a field. Great end to the day!

The shock and Joy of Christchurch…To OZ

Leanne said there was frost in her garden but my cold toes already knew. We were warm sleeping but a shower was not going to happen. After a nice breakfast we discovered Leanne was a Christian and praying together and for her daughter was a pleasure before heading off to Christchurch.

On the way we stop at a river that flows from the Mts near Arthur’s Pass, under a cool bridge and through Rakaia Gorge.

Soon we are in the city who’s name became linked with the tragedy of multiple earthquakes and still is working it through. Our first stop are the 185 white chairs in an empty lot that represent those killed that day. Of the hundreds injured many had hip fractures from being launched skyward by the heaving earth. The red zones contain entire neighborhoods condemned, demolished and left empty and eerie. The shanking earth pushed mud and sand up as houses sunk. I am told that scientists describe NZ’s fault lines like strings pulled too tight and a large quake is sadly overdue.

I choose to remember Christchurch as a place of joy; Joy Brett that is and her great family. Joy attended Pepperell Christian Fellowship and they raised their children in southern NH. Now they are almost all back in NZ and we enjoyed dinner with them at their home. I also received my first lesson in the strategy of cricket plus a lot of other NZ knowledge. Thanks

Our B&B fronts on a beautiful park and Kevin a longtime transplant from Korea is a great host. Though he has many local tips we know that most of our last day will be spent at the Willowbank Wildlife Preserve. Bethany, Joys youngest, is an employee there who specializes in care of the Kiwi birds. They exhibit and rehabilitate for release these reclusive flightless birds. She graciously led us through the enclosure providing antidotes reserved for a special group of caregivers. She bids us farewell so she can attend the hatching of their newest member. We enjoyed our visit to the Preserve and it filled some missing ‘to do’ pieces. Our 4 hour flight gets us into Melbourne by 730.

Inthe Red light which simulates night the shapes are Kiwi Flight 4, car 4, room 25.

NZ is so much crammed into a small space. The contrasts are at times overwhelming and the people were approachable and sincere. I just hope I didn’t mess them up too much with my wipers running at every intersection. Kia Ora…on to Oz

Forests, Penguin hunt, Frosty Farms, A steep street and g’day SPole

January 22 and 23

We head out toward the Caitlin Forest from our AirB&B in Invercargill. A little awkward carrying the luggage from the street around to the back of the house but it was a comfortable place. Yesterday’s winds have subsided as we round the south coast of New Zealand. Our stop at the Petrified forest is our closest pass to the South Pole and soon we’ll be putting our jackets away.

We make a stop at The Lost Gypsy. Our neighbor Kathy back in Camden asked us to stop in and say hi to her friend Blair. He has a shop of curious oddities and we can’t help but linger. A pit stop in the town of Owaka reveals another collection called Dougies Shed Man Cave. Everything is on display but not for sale. It’s a great collection of stuff!

On our way to our next VRBO we stop through Dunedin to see the beautiful train station and visit the very nice history museum. Tonights stay is not just tucked up into the hills across from the city but is part way to Harington Point where penguins might be seen. After dinner we drive up to the visitor center and decide that welcoming penguins after a 935 sunset would get us home after 11 so off to another beach. The yellow eyed variety nest in the hills of Allan’s Beach and we learn these early birds have already gone to bed. We settle for the antics of a group of playful seals (sea lions) and a walk on the beach before we head for bed.

The morning birdsongs are great and like most mornings I am trying to find them. Since we are headed out through Dunedin we locate the steepest residential street in the world. It was a heck of a walk up and walking down at times I felt as if I was going to fall forward.

We make our way to a geological wonder called Boulder Beach. We get just enough fun in with the boulders before the rain starts again. The town of Oamaru was an architectural oddity as it has a Main Street lined with multi story stone buildings erected when the port was a major shipping hub.

Our stop for coffee and Wi-Fi proved to take a bit too long as we need to hustle in order to catch our hostess before she went out for the evening. We need to meet her because it takes a 4 wheel drive to get into the back acreage. The house is totally off grid with solar lights etc and we reassure her that our boat living has prepared us for this. Dinner is cooked on propane and our night is relaxing reading and listening to music. It doesn’t get sufficiently dark till almost 10 pm and we sleep in the silence knowing the skies are clearing and we’ll see stars tonight.

I wake Sheri just as the moon is rising so she can see the southern cross just as it adorns both NZ and Aus flags.

The rain makes all the waterfalls come out… yep

January 20..

It’s only 20 minutes from the hotel to the pick up at Manapouri. We meet the four others at 9:30 that will be sharing the next 24 hours with us on Doubtful Sound. This area has a weather pattern that cannot be predicted due to strong fronts that run up from Antarctica and roll up and down the fjord walls that are over a thousand feet high. When we start out here it’s partly sunny and mild. By the time we attempt to cross out into the Tasman Sea nobody questions the captains decision to come about. Rain and wind are the order of the day and we make the best by watching from the enclosures.

The Captain takes us out sitting back foot upon the wheel
After a lunch of stew and bread we realize that food will be another important component. The rain fills our shoes when we are fishing and the wind had the force to blow the waterfalls up making a fog. Our room on the top deck was originally to be shared but we are the only occupants and it’s the best place to invite all in to watch natures spectacle. Now we have an enviable glass enclosed rooftop home to share.

we are so small at anchorage we get nice and close and then closer. Good way to clean the windless Our captain and mate are locals while the cook is German. The other couples are from Belfast Ireland and Scotland. So after dinner conversation floats between political issues we all see playing out on a global stage and we are glad to be here deep in a land unaffected by these so very important teacup tempests. We sleep closer to the South Pole than the equator.

kEach meal is presented by the chef after all are served. A half a fresh caught lobster served cold is served prior to a fish plate with a hollandaise that was great….but I digress. Breakfast scrambled eggs with lobster and champagne sautéed mushrooms…oh I digress again. Thankfully the weather broke for and hour so I could enjoy a dry kayak trip way around our anchorage.

We are all left with a sense of how small we are within this majesty. The huge Manapouri Hydro Station outflow tube is a reminder of why there is access to this remote location. The 22k road will always be the most expensive road in the country. Our exit retraces our (22k) 50 min van ride over the mountain and the hour long ferry ride over Lake Manapouri.

Returning by 11:30 left us time for one more adventure recommended by Jan our cook. We traveled back to Te Anau and after some errands got a venison lunch at a great food cart and watched a documentary “Fiordland On Film” about the area we just visited shot from helicopters. Great extra perspective.

The final leg of the day brings us to Invercargill through towns that appear to be frozen or just forgotten. A nice look into the past but not a lot of hope for tomorrow.

Queenstown…A pig,whistle,rain and Shakespeare

The opening for an old gold mineSince today was going to be rain we headed for some stores to do some shopping. It’s amazing how many US teams that have merchandise in stores here. Souvenir time and then off to get a pint. The only criteria I had was a fireplace and the staff at Pig & Whistle obliged by firing up the gas log. substitute rain for warm above The firemen in Queenstown insert the ‘hydrant’ into the pipe under the street leaving dogs sad as it is removed afterwards.

I even tried to get Jim Gibson to spot us on the local webcam… maybe he saw us? After those shenanigans we headed for Te Anau for a night at the Shakespeare House B&B. This will provide for a quick AM trip to Manapouri where we will get boat one to our overnight boat on Doubtful Sound.

sometimes there are just so many sheep!!While Sheri rested I shared a robust discussion with a young English couple traveling all around the world for 7 months and a Australian couple in NZ for 4 weeks. About 10:30 we were informed we were a bit too robust for thin walls.

No worries…

I didn’t know you could say glacier with three syllables

Off from the teapot headed to the Franz Josef glacier first. With the low clouds we were not sure what we would see as we walked in through a thick rain forest. Thankfully we were blessed with a clear view across to the glacier and up to blue sky. In a drizzle we retreated back to the car and clouds closed in on the glacier. Fox glacier is next and we chose to drive to a viewing location which was nice. The glacier ice shone blue in the sun. It is amazing how quickly they are melting

I imagine she’s listening to a recording of a glacier river tumbling by
I thought it was steam but it’s dustHe said keep moooving…Matts not home

Back on the road and heading south the tops of the Southern Alps are in and out of the clouds. We stopped to see waterfalls and rivers. The rivers are turquoise blue and are pretty to see against the mountains and sky. Sorry about all the pictures that might look the same but I just keep going wow that’s nice.

I remembered that a famous news anchor man purchased a large piece of property close by where we were going so I took a turn down by Hunter Valley Station and I do believe I saw Matt driving into the road with two other gentleman and a black range rover. Within a few minutes we were at our VRBO for the night. By far this one was the nicest from western standards as it was a full-sized two bedroom apartment with large sliders and a full kitchen. The owner is a hunting guide and brings groups in from the US.

The wind is picking up and the weather is changing…Tut-tut looks like rain..O bother.

Gold, Pancakes, Gold, and yep Gold

This west coast area is legendary for prospecting for gold. Just a bit south, in Ross, a nugget they named Roddy was found and it was as large as a big mans hand. Having gone to the Yukon Cornelius school of prospecting I certainly have what it takes to pan for gold so of course I get my trusted partner to (reluctantly) come along. Gold I say again…she isn’t impressed.

notice the technique….after the bite nothing but a dentist is needed

It’s a cool little stream tucked off the main road and I back the car in away from watchful eyes. After a 200 foot tramp we are there, alone and ready. Lottery ticket folks say that you can’t win if you don’t play and as I sift through the sand I remember that I haven’t won the lottery either. It was fun to play.

I love the last line…Don’t be an Idiot…sooo politically incorrect

I won by visiting Pancake Rocks as this place is a natural attraction in a state of change. We wonder when the powerful sea will win out and cause these archways to collapse. What we saw was a section of hill that had collapsed onto the highway and closed the opposite lane. There are lots of areas that like that since most of the roads are built at the base, on the side of or through hills and mountains.

We drive down the coast heading toward the teapot cottage and on the way we stopped at an old gold mining town called Ross. There we saw the remnants of what was very large mining operation. There is even hope that someday mining might return but in the meantime it’s becoming a ghost town. I found no gold there as well.The above taken out one bedroom window and below taken from the other

The teapot cottage is a destination onto itself. The pathways leading to the door are lined with metal teapots. The main feature in the living room is a old stereo and a stack of records. It was a night of listening to Beach Boys, Beatles and old Australian folk songs. Quirky but quaint. Have to make sure I can “tie me kangaroo down” mate. It was a nice place to spend a night alongside route six in Harihari.

These two taken from out front of the cottage …we’ll be heading west in the AM

From sea to shining sea

It is nice to stay at a place that supplies breakfast and WiFi…the day starts slowly. Today we start our day in Kaikoura and ended in Greymouth. With stops at Castle Hill and the famous Arthur’s Pass it promises to be (and was) interesting.

There are places that you could spend more time and as we were being shown through the gardens I felt that way.. https://www.newshub.co.nz/home/new-zealand/2018/11/video-shows-dramatic-landscape-changes-following-k-ikoura-earthquake.html

I’ve never been in the area that had so recently been affected by an earthquake but this video is pretty amazing. When I asked the owner of the rental about the white rocks that were prominent off the coast by the highway he said that they were not there prior to the earthquake and had been lifted 15 feet to be exposed. He said that he, his renter from Canada and a lot of the town headed up the hills in the middle of the night fearing s tsunami.

Now it’s off to the point to get a panoramic view of the ocean that faces Chile and a beautiful panorama of mountains that come right down to the water. Soon we are headed through more wine areas as we approach Route 73 that will guide us across the north part of the southern alps.

I give to the town of Springfield to promote the Simpsons movie

Castle hill is almost halfway across the range taking us to the West Coast. It’s a group of rocks shaped over time and deposited it on hillside. It’s fun to walk around and it’s amazing when you get up close and see how big they are. We make one more stop at Devils Punch bowl waterfall. This is nice exercise in between the driving.The road through Arthur’s past is also very nice…see pics.

We end the day on the side of the hill with a distant view of the ocean and the singing/screaming cicada bugs. After dinner I let Sheri win at cribbage… I’m getting good at that! Sheri heads off to read in the room and I sit by a nice fire with a pile of driftwood to keep it going.

Days of wine and roses

Our intentions are always to leave early but today we don’t want to arrive at the wine tasting too early so just after 10 we concluded our conversation with our host. As a school principal she was off to meet with an architect. We enjoyed our stay.The replanting of a hillside

Heading east the rolling hills gradually become a valley between two mountain ranges. Passing lots of large hop fields then vineyards start to appear. A sea of vines as far as the eye can see on both sides of the road. Marlborough grapes for dozens of wine makers. We are after two brands that we can buy in the states and we weren’t interested in paying for a tasting.This machine goes between the rows trimming the tops and sides

The first,Wairau River, had a great tasting and a nice facility to visit. At the next, Allen Scott, we visit with two Australian couples at the tasting and have lunch.

After we finish lunch we head for Kaikoura and drive along the Kaikoura Coast Highway. There’s a lot of work being done on the highway and it was nice to slow down and appreciate the views. Just a couple of years ago they had a major earthquake here that shut down the highway is leading to Kaikoura. At our VRBO they pointed out the neighbors who were still not able to occupy their homes because of damage.Just below the surface is sand and it doesn’t take much for erosion to occur The roses were beautiful

Just minutes from our place we stop for fish and chips on the recommendation of our Australian winetasting friends. We arrive to our place at about 6 have dinner and settle in. The owner was trying out his Maine accent so after dinner I went to visit them. I showed them my Maine and taught them how to say wicked good and ayuh!

A day at Able Tasman National Park & talking with Barry

After a bit of shuffling around with brochures and watching the weather we decide to go forward with a boating and hiking day trip to Able Tasman.

Lunches, water and bug spray ready we make the 35 minute drive to cruise from Kaiteriteri to Torrent Bay for a tidal landing on the beach. Passing by kayakers, and split apple rock on the way. We needed to change to a smaller boat for the wet exit at the start.

We walked 4.5 miles along the coastal track through dense forest and across the Falls River Swing Bridge to Medlands Beach at Bark Bay. The views through shades of lush greens to turquoise waters and white sand beaches were outstanding. The California quail and Weka birds were often close enough to touch. Good exercise and a boat trip-win win. Sheri’s Achilles tendon that was a concern has been a little sore at times but holding up very well.there are two legs…really zoom to the hill top & you’ll see our place

From a beach front pub we snacked, replenished fluids and looked across Cooks Strait at rain showers in the mountains of the North Island. Returning home a different way we passed a great river and a view of the recently cleared back lot. The owner revealed later that he qualified for a gov’t tree planting grant (aimed at planting 1 billion trees) that will fund replanting 2000 trees.

I also shared a conversation with a neighbor who was in the merchant marine and has seen governments around the world allow their fleets to be reflagged to foreign ports. This has cost thousands of jobs and stripped England, the US and others of their fleets. I never knew that. He is watching the new trade and national policies in the US and says they’re necessary.

After a visit from the chickens…fun… we looked out the window at the peaks in the largest national park, Kahurangi, as the last light of a good day fades. Tomorrow we wine…